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  • Home
  • Swimacise
  • Coaching
    • Swim sessions
    • Swim video analysis
    • Swimming drills
    • Open Water Swimming
    • CSS Calculator
    • FTP Calculator
    • Biking
  • Products
  • Articles
  • Downloads
  • FAQ
  • Contact Us

What is FTP and how can I calculate it ?

8/12/2021

 
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Functional Threshold Power is the maximum amount of power (effort) a person can exert for an extended period of time, say for an hour.

Fitness tests are a great way to measure your improvement for any element of your triathlon training. They show you how your training is making improvements to your potential race times and this one can easily be carried out on the bike.

Tri- Trained follow the British Cycling's approach for measuring your FTP and the way training zones are calculated from the results of your FTP test. 
​​Our calculator on this page will calculate your FTP and your training zones automatically, making it easy to use these zones in your day-to-day training. 

​The following article will give you the background to measuring your FTP and explain each of the zones. This will allow you to work with your coach to develop a training plan and improve your race times.

How to measure you FTP


The easiest way to measure your FTP accurately is to use an indoor bike trainer. You will need a trainer that can measure and display your average power output in watts.  To ensure you get a reliable for your average power. carryout the test on a recovery week. That way your body will be refreshed and able to show what it can produce and won't be exhausted from a heavy training week.

How to perform the test

When you perform the test, you will be required to record your average (mean) power output. So, make sure during your test that the ERG mode has been turned off.

Warm up
  • Warm-up on the bike for 15 minutes at a nice and easy, steady pace. During the warm-up period increase your speed to your test pace for 10 seconds with rest periods between each increase, repeat this throughout the warm-up 5 times.
  • At the end of your warmup, your pulse rate should be around 60 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate 
The Test
  • Ride as hard as you can for 20 minutes during which time measure your average (mean) power output. (ERG mode OFF ).
Warm down
  • Warm down with an easy 5 to 10 minute steady ride.
  • At the end of your warm down, your pulse rate should be back down to 60 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate ​

FTP Calculator

The recorded average power output can then be entered into the calculator on this page, along with your weight to calculate your individual FTP, training zones and power to weight values.

​What are training zones

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Zone 1 - Recovery (Active Recovery) < 55% FTP

I am usually watching TV and eating sweets during this phase

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A slow and steady ride with no sense of burning or any fatigue. This zone is used as part of a warm-up or warm-down session as well as recovery elements in a hard interval session.
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Zone 2 - Endurance 55 - 76% FTP 

I am comfortable in this zone and can maintain this pace all day

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An easy comfortable ride pace. A pace at which you can still maintain a conversation with any of your fellow riders. Think of this as a zone that if you are at the top end you have to start concentrating to maintain the pace. During a progressive warm-up you will build up to the top end of this zone.
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Zone 3 - Tempo 76 - 90% FTP

​I can still talk in this zone but I am slightly breathless and 
definitely sweating

In this zone you will have to concentrate on holding the pace and conversations with fellow riders will be short. Experienced riders will use this zone for the flat parts of any ride. Whereas the less experienced will be holding this pace for only short parts of their rides (5 - 10 minutes, with the aim of building the length of time they can maintain the pace as they progress.
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Zone 4 - Threshold 90 - 105% FTP

I can still talk but I don't really want to and I am sweating profusely

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This is the zone you will be in during your FTP test, it's tough going and you will struggle to hold the pace. Conversation will be very short and your legs will have a burning sensation.
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Zone 5 - VO2 Max 105 - 120% FTP

I can just about grunt in response to your questions and can only keep this pace up for a short time period

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Conversation will be nonexistent and you will feel you are pushing the pace very hard. In this zone your legs will start to burn very quickly Staying in this zone for long periods will not be possible and it forms only short elements of any training session.
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Zone 6 - Anaerobic Capacity > 120% FTP​

I feel like dying is a real possibility

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This is your 100% pace and is the zone you will enter when completing that last sprint to the line.

How Critical Swim Speed can improve your swim times.

19/4/2021

 
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What is Critical Swim Speed (CSS)?

CSS is the fastest pace you can maintain continuously without being exhausted, called your aerobic swimming threshold.

What are the Benefits of CSS Training
  1. Because the pace you swim at when doing CSS swimming is at your maximum aerobic threshold, you will build on your aerobic capacity  This allows you to swim and still have some reserve for other activities such as running and cycling.
  2. This type of training will build your ability to maintain a strong pace over longer distance swims.
  3. Because you are training at a regular pace you will be able to use this to ensure you don't go off too fast in the race.
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What do I need to do to find my CSS time.

To find your CSS time you will need to record your times for a 400m and 200m swims in the same swim session. . Enter these times into our CSS calculator on this page. Then use the calculated time in your training to improve your swim times.

Session to measure your CSS time,
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  • Warm up
    • 1 x 300m relaxed front crawl swim.
    • 4 x 50m front crawl swim with 10s rest after each 50m
    • 4 x 25m sprint swim with 10s rest after each 25m
    • 1 x 100m relaxed front crawl swim
  • 400m time trial
  • Rest for 4 - 5 minutes making sure you have fully recovered.
  • 200 time trial
  • Warm Down 
    • 1 x 100 relaxed choice swim

Once you have your times, work with your coach to define suitable training sessions where you can use your CSS times to then improve that swim endurance. Remember to check your CSS times every now and then so that you can adjust sessions as you improve. Again talk with your coach to determine how regular you check the times.

What to look for when selecting a nose clip

2/9/2020

 
​What are nose clips?
​A small device, designed to keep your nose closed, whilst swimming. Made from various materials, such as metal, plastics and silicon or rubber. When placed on the nose they hold the nostrils closed. These will prevent breathing through the nose.
Why use a nose clip?
​Commonly used to help all levels of swimmers, some swimmers can have allergic reactions or irritations after swimming. Allegies to the chemicals used in some pools and bacteria of fungus in open water venues. A nose clip can help prevent these reactions.
Also useful when learning to swim, when water entering the nose is a frequent occurance, preventing the early swimmer gaining confidence in the water.
Also useful when kayaking, rafting or surfing and often used with a nose clip strap to prevent the loss of the nose clip.
What to look for in a nose clip
  • Nose clips vary in size so make sure you choose an appropriatly sized clip. Check out any reviews posted on any particular nose clip to help determine the right sized clip for you.
  • If you plan to swim regularly, look for a clip that is made with strong and durable materials. Plastic clips may loosen over time so a good metal clip will retain the shape longer.. Make sure the padding is made of a durable material like silicon so the nose clip remains safe for your skin.
  • If you plan to do a lot of open water swimming, rafting or kayaking, fit a nose clip strap. Either a short one to the bridge of your googles, ideal for swimmers, or a longer strap that can easily attach to the strap of your goggles or helmet. A strap will prevent you from losing the clip in the mayhem at the start of an open water competition, or the rapids in your kayak. Tri-trained sell a pack of straps containing one long and one short strap, made of very fine durable dacron that means you hardly no the strap is in place.

How to video yourself swimming

25/6/2020

 
​Videoing yourself swimming is an excellent way to see what your stroke looks like.  But, to correctly identify any weaknesses and to know how to make improvements, takes an expert eye. Tri-Trained are now offering expert analysis of your stroke by video. We will analyse your swimming technique and specify exactly which areas of your stroke would benefit from some shape changes and the  specific drills to reinforce the change.
Where do I start?
​The starting point is the videoing and getting the right shots to get the most from our analysis. This article has been written with this in mind and will allow you to get the best shots. If you then want to send this into Tri-trained and have one of our coaches give you expert feedback or, alternatively, to analyse the video yourself, I am sure this article will help.
​The best place to get the right video shots is down at your local pool. Make sure you have permission to video before you start and then ask a friend to record around 10 seconds of your stroke from these angles.
  • From Above
​Follow the swimmer with the camera directly above the swimmer looking directly down, as in the image. The best way to do this is by mounting the camera on a pole and holding it above the swimmer following them along on the side of the pool
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  • From the side above the water
​Next, follow the swimmer videoing the side view and record several arm strokes. Try and keep the camera nice and steady and to keep all of the swimmer in the frame. Keep the camera as close to the water surface as is possible
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​The next two angles are not essential, but do give us a lot of extra information. Only attempt these shots if you have a waterproof camera! A GoPro or clone would be perfect
  • From the front underwater
​Record a front shot of the swimmer by keeping the camera just in front of their hands. Video them through several arm strokes
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  • From the side underwater
​As before, record the swimmer from the side, but this time with the camera just under the surface. Remember to try and keep the whole of the swimmer in the frame and to record several stroke cycles
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​Summary
​You will need…
  • a camera capable of reasonable quality video. Preferably one that is waterproof
  • a selfie-stick, or camera pole to be able to frame the shot correctly
  • a friend to do the videoing part for you while you swim
Don’t expect to get great video footage at the first attempt. It takes a bit of practice to judge how fast a swimmer moves in the water and to frame them properly in the shot, all while holding the camera steady!
And don’t change your swim stroke ‘just for the camera’. Swim like you do when nobody is watching.
​Now you have the video what should I do?
Once you have the four videos, please check you are happy with them and that you have included, if you can, all the four angles. You now have what you need to allow a coach to perform an analysis of your stroke.

Back into swim training – time to check your kit.

24/6/2020

 
The last few weeks have been a real challenge and I know you are all keen to get back into training ASAP. The lock down is gradually relaxing and we are hoping that next month (July) we will back in the water, doing what we all love – SWIMMING !
Now is the time to check out your kit and perhaps update it ready for when we start. Here is a reminder of what to check and a list of kit you will need.
  • Goggles
Ensure the pair you have been using (and love) are still fit for use. Check the strap for any splits, the eye seals for nicks and replace them if they show signs of damage. You don’t want them letting you down in the middle of a session.
You do have a spare pair, don’t you? So you are prepared for anything? Make sure you adjust them before arriving at the pool, just in case.
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  • Fins
For training in the pool, we recommend a short fin (the Speedo BIOFUSE design is our preferred fin). These aren’t the cheapest, but have been proven to last longer than some of the cheaper brands that tend to split quite quickly. Bargains are out there with Speedo advertising these today at 50% off.
If you already have fins, check that they still fit your feet. Fins should fit snugly; if you can fit multiple fingers in the space between fin and skin they are too big! If fins are loose they will cause chaffing and likely painful blisters in the long run. We recommend 1 shoe size up when selecting a fin, as your feet will swell slightly during training.
Look for any splits in the rubber, especially around the back of the fin. Replace them if you find any.

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  • Paddles
You need a good general-purpose paddle that is easy to fit. There are many paddles out there designed to correct specific swimming issues, which work well, but are of little use for general swim training. We recommend the Finis AGILITY paddle. They can be fitted quickly and come in different sizes to suit your hands. Plus they have the added advantage of reminding you that the hand entry should be flat and not thumb first. Shop around as these vary in price a lot and you will be surprised how cheap you can get them if you look.

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  • Snorkel
Snorkels in swim training allow you to focus on your drills without worrying about breathing. They help to ensure body alignment, stroke efficiency and to build aerobic capacity.  The guidelines from Swim England recommend rotation in the lanes so that everyone is breathing away from each other. This will be helped further by the use of a snorkel.
Our recommendation for a good quality, general purpose centre mounted snorkel is the Finis Swimmers Snorkel. Remember that these should be cleaned on a regular basis, which can be easily done by running the snorkel through a wash cycle on the top rack of the dishwasher (without the head bracket). When looked after properly these snorkels will last a long time.
Make sure to check the head band and the mouth piece for any damage regularly. Replace it if you find anything wrong.

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  • Nose clip
Not used by all swimmers, but some find them useful, especially when tumble turning and swimming backstroke. Various designs exist and all need regular checking for damage, especially the ones with a metal strap, to ensure there are no sharp edges that might cut you in use.
It’s always a good idea to use a nose clip strap, that either attaches to the bridge of the goggles or has a longer neck strap. These are used to prevent the nose clip from being lost in use. This is especially useful in open water swimming, where it would be impossible to find the clip if it falls off. Check the strap and replace it if you find any damage. Remember to regularly clean these as they tend to get stored damp in plastic cases, which can mean they are prone to bug growth.
Which nose clip strap do Tri-Trained recommend? Why, our own brand-new Keep – it of course! It’s a very neat and secure nose clip strap at a modest price if you are looking for one.

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  • ​Swim hat
An important part of your training kit, especially if you have long hair, which I am guessing most of us have from the lock down. Give yours a look over, as they do split after a while. Finding out on the pool deck is a frustration.
Tri-Trained can supply you with a long-life silicone swim hat at a very reasonable price. If you like, you can have your name added.

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  • Kickboard
There isn’t much that can go wrong with a kickboard, other than a good clean if its been standing around in a damp kit bag. If you are looking to buy your first kickboard, we recommend a large, standard one such as the Speedo universal kickboard. It’s a good quality board and will last for years.
If you want to reduce the number of pieces of kit you carry around, then consider a kickboard/pull buoy combination, these are foam boards that can be used for either role.

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  • ​Pull Buoy
The same goes for pull buoys. They will last you ages and there is very little that can go wrong. If you are looking for your first, or replacing yours, then make sure you get the size that’s appropriate for you. Adults will generally need the larger size. Children and petite adults should consider the smaller size. Prices vary and there is little difference, other than size and colours, but we recommend the TYR pull for most people.
Also consider the combo kick board/pull buoys explained in the kick board section above.

  • Flip flops / pool shoes
A ‘must have’ if you are planning on doing any open water swimming and a real bonus if you enjoy swimming in an outdoor pool in the colder months. They will protect your feet from sharp objects and will keep you warmer on cold surfaces.
Check for any splits and give them a good clean, if they have been sitting in your bag for a while.
  • Changing robe
Very useful when open water swimming. Ideal for changing out of your clothing, or wetsuits, outdoors in any weather. Most of them have a waterproof & windproof exterior nylon fabric and a lining that dries you and keeps you warm.
With the recommendation from Swim England to arrive at the pool ‘ready to swim’ and to change on the pool deck these become almost another ‘must have’ item.
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  • Catch-it
Talking of ‘must have’ items for any serious swimmer, you have heard of Catch-it, haven’t you? This simple-to-use device will remind you of the correct hand position to help you “catch” the water. The catch is the initial part of the stroke, where your hand engages with the water and uses the resistance felt to push you forward. Without doubt the most important part of any stroke.
Use Catch-it during the warm up to remind you of the correct feel of the stroke. And throughout your training session, to ensure you get that hand entry right.
Think of it as your own personal coach, gently reminding you. Keep it in your swim bag and use it regularly to keep things going well

​Let us worry about your hand entry in front crawl

25/3/2020

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In my 20 years of coaching swimmers, there has always been the debate on what is the correct hand entry and position throughout the front crawl stroke. I hope with this article we can simplify things and show you how you can use a simple piece of equipment to take away the worry of the hand entry, allowing you to focus on other things.
Let’s break down the issues into smaller steps so we can get a better picture of all the complications.
  • Coaches too often teach hand entry and catch the same way for all swimmers, but everyone is different and have a different experience in the water. This requires a difference in how and what coaches should be doing in their training
  1. Beginners who have joined the swimming world as masters swimmers will have decreased range of motion and strength
  2. Youth swimmers, because of their age will have a wider range of motion, but will lack strength
  3. Elite swimmers may have the strength, a larger range of motion but this will make coaching them significantly harder to correct any issues. This is because they have the ability to fake the correct motion due to their talent and time spent in the water.
Different approaches to how you coach each of these types of swimmers is important, but not something that isn’t always appreciated!
  • One size fits none! – Yes there are common faults that many swimmers will need correcting on, but the history of any injury or functional limitations should all be taken into account when coaching. As an example swimmers with history of shoulder pain, may have problems understanding what their shoulder is doing and may therefore, have problems identifying what their hand is doing on the entry. Working on stabilising the shoulder maybe where the focus is needed, which should be considered before focusing on the hand position.
  • I have heard so many times from swimmers that they have studied videos of elite swimmers and that mimicking what they do will be the way forward. Although it’s fascinating to watch what these Olympic athletes can do, they have been swimming for years and because of this have developed strength and range of motion that is not possible to reproduce as a novice. By all means watch the videos and look at what they do, but don’t try to replicate what they do.
  • Fingers apart or together? – well there have been so many studies discussing this with evidence supporting  that the fingers should be 3.2mm apart. Now I am sure the study was correct, but who has a ruler available to them when swimming?! This is also very dependant on spee , with the fingers needing to be further apart as you speed up. A natural position is fingers slightly apart in a relaxed position, helps relax the muscles and conserves energy.
  • Paddles are often used by coaches to improve strength, which for the elite swimmers is important. However they allow swimmers to misuse, to get away with an incorrect hand entry and still move forward at speed but with potential flaws. This would increase the chance of shoulder pain, if not correctly used. Swimmers should only use paddles with care and focus on the correcting of the stroke as a priority.
  • Should the hand be flat or cupped? – the answer is flat with a slight cup. A flat hand will introduce a lift at the catch of the stroke, which will make you less streamlined and will this is not natural and requires more energy.
It’s complicated and as I have said, one size fits no one! Coaches should consider all of the above whilst working with their swimmers, but a tool that works on the correct hand entry by taking away the thinking and sending you a message that you need to change things, will allow coaches to focus on some of the above issues, knowing hand entry is taken care of, must help!

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CATCH-it can do this and it’s so simple to use! CATCH-it can be worn throughout your training session and will put your hand in the natural relaxed cupped position and if you have a tendency to flatten the hand will give you the feedback to change and relax.
Wear it for a few sessions to get the feel of the relaxed hand before then trying sessions without it, once you have that feel. Using it now and then the remind yourself how it feels, maybe in the warm up of a training session. Simple!

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Bike M-Check

29/10/2019

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M-Check
One method of checking that your bike is safe and ready for a race is an 'M-check'. 
So called because it forms the shape of an M, starting at the front hub, travelling up to the handlebars, down to the bottom bracket, up to the saddle and back down to the rear hub.

The list below will help you identify what to look for when preforming the M-check.

1, Front Wheel:
  • Axle nuts/quick release – make sure these are tight & firmly closed.
  • Spokes all present and tight.
  • The brakes are secure and working, they are aligned and not rubbing against tyres.
  • Lights & reflectors – if fitted, are tight and working.
  • The tyre hasn't got any splits, cuts and is not worn.
  • The tyre is inflated to the correct pressure.
  • Grip the rim of the wheel and rock back and forth to feel for any loose bearings.
  • Spin the wheel to check for tight bearings and poor alignment or buckles.
2. Handlebars:
  • Ensure the headset and handlebars are tight with no side-side play.
  • Check the brakes levers & gear shifters are working correctly.
  • Make sure you have bar end stops on both ends of the bar.
3. Chain Ring:
  • Ensure the front derailleur is working correctly with smooth changes and that there are no frayed wire ends.
  • The crank spins freely, with no side-side play.
  • The pedals are fitted correctly, and free from debris.
  • The cleats, where used, are clean and not worn.
  • The chain is oiled and not rusty.
4. Saddle:
  • Is facing in the correct direction.
  • Is set at the correct angle.
  • Is free from rust, damage, cracks.
  • Is tightly secured to the seat post clamp.
5. Rear Wheel:
  • As per front wheel +
  • Ensure the rear derailleur is working correctly with smooth changes.
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Top TRI Tips

30/9/2019

 
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Running
  1. Always take short strides at the start of the run section of your triathlon, your legs will be tired from the cycling, taking shorter steps will aid the transition into the run, adjust your stride length as you start to get used to the run.
  2. Learn to pace - when training, run shorter distances at the pace of your competition distance. You can set your target time for the race distance, run at that pace for shorter distances, with rest between them. Over time you will find you can lengthen the shorter distances or take less rest, until you are running the full distance at that new pace.
  3. Think and plan how you run in your training sessions. if the focus is a hard session on a Tuesday, then doing a longer slower run on a Sunday will help the Tuesday run. You need rest. When you run on the Sunday, if you are feeling good don’t be tempted to push any harder than you planned at this session, or this will affect the run on Tuesday, keep to the plan and know what the focus is for the week.
  4. Taking a drink on a run from a cup, isn’t easy.  To help with this, pinch the lip of the cup to form a spout, this will prevent the drink going everywhere, making it easier to direct it where you want the drink to go.
  5. Running is hard, and the longer the training run the harder it is. As it gets harder things go wrong and your focus can be lost. Take a short break every 5 – 10 minutes and walk for approx. 1 minute, at about 60 steps a minute, this will give you time to remind yourself what the aim of the session is, and will mean you will feel fresher and less fatigued 
Cycling
  1. Use the cycling leg to refuel, tape some gels on to the cross bar of the bike. As you tear them off the gel will open, no more fiddling with opening them up whilst riding. Remember the gel packaging should not be discarded, store it in a pocket or up the leg of your tri-suit until you can safely dispose of it correctly.
  2. Make sure when you train for the bike leg you don't train in a pack. Triathlon events do not allow for streamlining, so don't train this way. Triathlon is a time trial on your own so get used to it and train how you race.
  3. Regularly practice clipping and unclipping your race helmet buckles, after the swim you will be under pressure, its surprising how easy it is to get it wrong. Alternatively try magnetic helmet clips, you might find them easier.
Swimming
  1. Goggle choice – where do you start? there are so many to choose from. There will be all shapes and sizes being used in your club, so why not ask your training buddies if you could try a few. Consider tinted goggles for those sunny open water swims. Remember they don’t last for ever so check them and replace them if there are any signs of wear.
  2. In open water events you will be swimming close to other swimmers, there is a risk you might get kicked and your goggles knocked off. Put your swim hat over the top of the goggle straps, this will prevent you losing your goggles altogether.
  3. Don’t spend money on an aero helmet for your bike leg. Spend the money on swim coaches, evidence has shown an aero helmet will save the top athletes approx. 1 minute over 40km. If the swim leg is your weakness a good swim coach will make improvements in your time, then when you have a fast swim time make the aero helmet investment.
Transition
  1. Always walk you transition route, making sure you are familiar with where you have to go. Plan an alternate route just in case there is an obstacle in the way, you will be amazed how much space another athlete getting ready can take up, and they could be right on your route.
General
  1. If it's your first race, choose somewhere close to home, it will reduce the stress. You can practice on parts of the course before the race day and who knows you might get some more support on the day from friends or relations.
  2. Do long slow distance training at least once a week, Triathlon is an endurance event so you need to do either regular bike or run sessions each week.
  3. It always helps when you see a friendly face cheering you on when you are racing. Take it one step further, print a map of the course, work out where your supporters will be, that way you have something to look forward to as you are racing.
  4. Try and complete two training disciplines together whenever you can, one of the hardest parts of triathlon are those changes from one discipline to another, so if you can, after a bike ride, complete a short run, or the first part of the bike ride after a swim. Maybe bike home from the pool. These shorter, two discipline sessions will improve how you feel after a particular section of the Tri and help make the race more comfortable.

Race day check list

2/5/2019

 
Over the winter I am sure you have all been putting in enough training to get ready for the competition season. Giving some forward planning for the race day will reduce the pressure of the day and allow you to make the most of this training.

You have done the hard work, its now about eliminating those race day nerves and taking advantage of what you have achieved.

We have generated a list of things to consider, which will be available on our website in the form of a checklist, so you download it to use before your race.

Non discipline specific items

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​.BT membership card
If you have registered with British Triathlon and are taking advantage of any discount on entry costs, you may be asked to show your membership card. Having it with you might be an advantage.

Registration pack
If you have been sent your race registration pack, which might include all of your race numbers etc, you will need to bring this with you. Most of the time these are supplied at the race, but occasionally they will be sent out to you.

Directions to the event
An obvious thing, but I have known athletes to travel to the wrong venue. So make sure you have the address, including the post code for the sat nav.

Money
Again, an obvious thing, but you might need to pay for some food, or there might be a bargain piece of kit at an event shop.

Waterproof Sunscreen
You will be out in the sun for a while, so make sure you have plenty of sunscreen on, and that it;s applied regularly. Remember you are swimming so make sure its waterproof.

Watch
A good triathlon watch is nice to have and will allow you to pace the race as you have planned, it will also ensure you arrive at the start on time.

Torch
It may sound a mad thing, but some races start early, or you have to set the transition the night before. Having a torch will help if it's dark.

Safety pins
If you are not intending on using a race belt, you will need to attach your race numbers, safety pins are the simplest way to do this. Having a few pins to repair any kit issues might also be useful.

Phone with charger lead
Again obvious, without it how are you going to post your success ? Bringing a charger lead will allow you to charge your phone, there are always USB ports available somewhere, but you will need a lead.

Blunt scissors
Always a good idea to have a pair of scissors just in case. Also useful for trimming any race numbers or to cut electrical tape.

Hole punch
Attaching your race number to your race belt, means making a hole in the race number, doing this with a hole punch makes it a lot easier.

Pre-race drink
Keeping hydrated before and during your race is important, so having a drinks bottle permanently attached to your hand whilst you are getting ready for the race is not a bad thing.

Bike tools
Things go wrong occasionally when you transport your bike. So having the right tools available to fix these small things is handy. Make sure you don’t rely on the kit on your bike as that is for the race issues and has been packed before you come. Setting up is stressful so don’t mess with kit you have prepared for the race, use other tools.

Track pump
Again – punctures happen, or you may have to adjust the pressures dependent on conditions. Remember if you leave your bike in transition over night, temperatures change so the pressure will change too. Having a track pump to make things easy to correct is wise.

First aid kit
First aid stations are likely to be at the event, so any first aid issues will be dealt with by them. However plasters are always handy to deal with blisters, so having a first aid kit would help.

Warm clothing
Post racing you may be standing around for quite some time, waiting to pick up your prize, so some warm clothing to change into is a must have.

Towel
Either to use in transition, drying your feet after the swim, or just to dry off after the race, again a must have item.

Plastic bags
Used to pack any wet gear after your race, or as cover for your bike saddle when leaving it over night in transition.

Toilet roll
You never know, the toilets may have run out of toilet paper, so bringing your own is always sensible.

Electrical tape
To repair any item that might need it. More importantly to attach any gels to the bike or if you have several laps in your race, attach a strip for each lap and this will help remind you how many laps you have to go.

Swim specific items

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Wetsuit
Open water swims will sometimes be in cold water, a wetsuit will help reduce the cold, They also aid with buoyancy and may be an advantage if your swim leg isn’t your strength. Remember though there are restrictions on the use of wetsuits when the temperature of the water rises. So be prepared that you may not be allowed to wear them.

Wetsuit lube
Lubrication designed for use with wetsuits will help prevent rubbing and will relieve any chafed or dry skin. This will also help with sliding into and out of the wetsuit. Adding some extra  lubrication to the outside of the wrists and ankles will aid removal, when the wetsuit turns inside out.

Swim float
Always a sensible addition to your kit when swimming open water and some events make it compulsory to have them if you are not swimming in a wetsuit. Cold water can be a shock to the system and even a strong swimmer may get affected by this cold shock. Having a flotation device with you, even when there are lifeguards available, is a smart move.

Goggles
Always have two pairs with you, one with tinted lenses in case its sunny and another slightly lighter for those dull days. Having two pairs also give you protection for when a strap breaks just before you need them. Remember to wear the goggles under your hat so if the goggles are knocked off in the race you won’t lose them altogether.

Tri-suit
You will need a costume to race in when not wearing a wetsuit, but also to have under your wet suit, for when its removed for the bike and run legs. A good quality tri-suit will dry quickly after the swim and is more comfortable than a swim suit in the bike leg.

Ear / nose plugs
If you suffer from water entering your ears or nose then the use of a plugs will help prevent this. If you suffer from dizziness after a swim it maybe because of water entering your ears. Ear plugs again will prevent this.

Swim hat
Always have two swim hats, the second to protect the goggles from being lost in the open water swim. Most competitions will supply you with a swim hat. Put your hat on first, followed by your goggles, then the supplied hat or your second hat to protect the goggles being lost.

Bike specific items

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Bike
An obvious statement, but easily forgotten when you are thinking of everything else, make sure you give the bike a check over after the journey to the competition. The British Triathlon M check is a good process to follow.
Of course if you don’t have a saddle fitted that allows you to rack your bike on the rear of the saddle, then you should fit a Rak-it – BECAUSE EVERY SECOND COUNTS.

Helmet
You won’t be able to race without an approved bike helmet, this will normally be checked as you enter transition to rack your bike. Choice of helmet maybe better made on the day, depending on conditions. So if you have more than one helmet bring them with you in case the weather conditions don’t match the forecasts.
Make sure the strap is correctly adjusted, prior to going to the competition.

Bike shoes
Appropriate shoes for riding on the bike are essential, attaching them to the bike to allow you to do a flying mount, is something that needs practicing so only attempt it after you get proficient.
If choosing new bike shoes and intending to perform flying starts, make sure you have purchase shoes with heel loop to attach the elastic bands and with a single strap for easy fastening.

Elastic bands
If you have practiced flying mounts, then you will need elastic bands to hold the shoes in the correct plain on the bike. Make sure they are fine enough to break or you will add extra resistance to the ride.

Puncture repair kit
On the longer triathlon events repairing a puncture will be worth doing. So having some way of repairing a puncture is essential. The kit should contain –
  • Spare inner tube.
  • Tyre levers.
  • Pump of CO2 inflator (with spare CO2 cartridge).
  • Puncture super patches in case you get more than one puncture.
  • Chain repair link with the correct link for the number of gears on the bike.
  • Multi tool with a chain splitter.

Water bottle(s)
Dependent on competition distance you may require more than one bottle, fit them to the bike so they are ready for use after the swim.

Jacket
The weather conditions may not be what is forecast, having a jacket with you allows you to deal with any changes.

Bike lights
Dependent on time of day and roads competing on, bike lights may be compulsory. Weather conditions may also require you to fit rear lights if on public roads.

Bike computer
If you haven’t got a watch to give you information about your pace a bike computer is an alternative you might want to consider.

Sunglasses
Always sensible to have glasses of some kind for the bike ride, mount these onto the helmet if your helmet allows, that way you just have to put the helmet on and your transition will be quicker.

Energy bars
Mount these onto the bike frame with electrical tape, or if you are using, on the race belt.

Race belt
Make sure you have the race belt fitted with any energy gels or bars, along with your race number. Remember for the bike leg the race number should be shown on your back.

Run specific items

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Run shoes
Appropriate shoes for the competition you have entered, consider the distance and terrane, to make sure the shoes give you the correct fit and grip.

Cap / Visor
To give you some protection from the sun an appropriate hat or visor should be worn, especially if the weather is hot and a longer distance. Protecting your eyes from the sun prevents squinting, which relaxes the face muscles and reduces tension in the body, improving your run efficiency.

Sighting in Open water

19/4/2019

 
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Many of the issues around drifting off line in open water swimming are caused by how you swim, what is important is that you always enter the water in line with your shoulder. As soon as you start to enter with a wide stroke or crossover the centre line of the body, you will have a tendency to drift offline. Practice and make sure your coach is helping you with the correct hand entry position.
Sighting is one of the most difficult and important things to do in open water swimming, so what are the tricks to keep on track.
  • Sighting and breathing in the same action means you rush the sighting element, so separate the actions and focus on the sighting alone.
  • Sighting is a three stroke action, firstly take a look at where you need to go, looking for a landmark or buoy you are heading for, the second is about adjusting your angle toward the direction you want to go. Then lastly check, have you made the right adjustment and are now going in the right direction.
  • Lifting your head to sight means your legs are likely to drop, slowing you down, make sure you add some extra kick to maintain forward motion and to keep those legs high in the water.
  • If the water is choppy, try and ensure you sight at the top of a wave, you should be able to feel yourself rising on the wave, use this to then sight when at the top of the wave,
  • Lifting yourself out of the water to sight, can be helped by entering your hand flat, rather than entering fingers first. This flat hand entry and subsequent push down will help lift you out of the water.
  • If the water is calm, minimise your head lift so you keep yourself as streamlined as is possible, lifting so just your eyes are out of the water only.
  • Make sure you practice head up swimming, even in the pool you can site during a training session, just to get used to the action in a controlled environment.
  • Remember the more you sight and / or the higher you have to lift yourself to sight, the more of a chance there is that you will slow down as your feet drop. Only siight as often as you need to, as you get better at keeping straight you can reduce the number of times you sight.
  • As you get better at sighting you can include a breath in the sighting cycle, I wouldn’t advise this until you are relaxed with your sighting. When you do this ensure you sight first then turn your head to the side to breath. Never breath then sight.
  •  When choosing something to sight on and a direction to swim, always choose the largest target as it will be easier to see, especially when choppy.

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    Author

    Paul Murray
    ​2016 East Region Triathlon coach of the year

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